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     BOSS OD-1 DIY Project - page II

      PCB Design
     
      Turning a schematic into a working circuit, soldered neatly onto a PCB was
      a total enigma for me, for a long time. Somehow it requires a bit of abstract
      thinking, and lots of imagination to make it work. For me, at least. I am not
      EE and have no special electronics background, except for what I have learned in
      the school. All knowledge in this area I collected from related [websites]
      and some [books] I found in the library.
     
      Therefore, my approach had to be pragmatic and systematic. First, one has to get
      a general idea of how the future PCB will fit in the enclosure. I choose the same
      orientation and wiring as used in the original stompbox, INPUT jack on the right,
      OUTPUT on the left side, copper side of the PCB facing the bottom of the box.
     
      Once we got this right, we start with laying out the circuit. For this you can use
      one of many [free PCB] layout programs, or get [this] handy helper thinggy.
      [Start with the opamp and the two transistors]. I assume that you have checked the pinout
      for the transistors already. If not, do it now. 2SC2362 & 2SC1571 have the following
      [pinout]. Opamp has a 'standard' [dual DIP8 pinout].
     
      Looking at the schematic, what do we see? The [collector] pin of the 1st transistor
      connects directly to +9V, same as pin 8 of the opamp and the collector of the 2nd
      transistor. You should be able to connect these 3 with a thick trace (+V and -V traces
      should theoretically be a bit thicker, as they carry voltage, and not signals). Done?
      OK. And how about the pin 4 of the opamp? It connects directly to GND or in this
      case V- (these designations vary from schematic to schematic). Just pull a trace from
      the pin 4 downwards. That was the main 'power' part of the layout. Now let's check out
      the signal path.
     
      Note: I made my OD-1 with true bypass, thus discarding all the FET's used for switching
      from the original schematic.
     
      Take a look at the 1st transistor. It is connected to pin 5 of the opamp through a cap.
      The cap is 0.0047uF. Taking care of the cap lead spacing and overall size of the cap, pull
      a trace from the emitter pin of the 1st transistor (let's call it Q1) to the cap, and then
      further from the cap to pin 5. Easy, right? Now we notice the emitter resistor. It connects
      to V- (same as pin 4), so connect one side of the resistor to the emitter pin, and the other
      to the same trace which goes to pin 4. Cool. Now you see that 100k resistor after the 0.0047u
      cap? That one connects to Vb (bias voltage). You get Vb (usually 1/2 V+) by making a so called
      'voltage divider' from two resistors of the same value. One of them connects to V+, the other
      connects to V-. The point where the two are joined is Vb. For the moment, we will not make
      any voltage divider, just imagine that you have it already, and connect a 100k resistor so that
      one side goes between the 0.0047 cap and pin 5 of the opamp, and the other connects to Vb.
      
      R2 (470k) also connects to Vb, and goes right from the [base] pin of Q1 to Vb. Connect it.
      Look! R7 also connects to Vb. that's one of the voltage divider resistors, One side goes to Vb
      and the other side goes to V-. Go connect. Now decide where the input pad of the PCB will
      be (and we agreed on the lower right corner). Input pad and the base of the Q1 are connected
      through a resistor R1 and a cap C1. Once you have finished that, you've got the whole input
      section ready.
     
      Right... Now you should have something [like this] or similar.